Rwanda Redux
MARCH 12TH, 2009
Rwanda Redux
Our intrepid reporter stepped out of her typical travel routine and into Africa with a trek to The Land of a Thousand Hills.
sleep
Touch down and connect with a tour operator who'll take you to the Lake Kivu Serena Hotel, situated on one of the best inland beaches on the continent. Park yourself on the patio overlooking the pool, lake and lush hillside every morning for a complimentary champagne breakfast, then head down to the shore for a head and shoulder massage ($120). Before flying out, consider booking a couple of nights at its sister hotel in the Kigali for potential run-ins with philanthropic stars (Scar Jo was spotted). From $122. Lake Kivu Serena Hotel, +250 541101, Gisenyi, Rwanda, www.serenahotels.com
eat
With beautiful views of the bustling capital city and a kitchen trained by New York chefs, Heaven really is a place on earth. While the delicious beef fillet with cassava chimichurri is reason enough to eat there, the restaurant, run by a American couple, extends its good beyond good food by sourcing ingredients locally and giving the attentive staff—many of whom were orphaned by the 1994 genocide—a healthy wage. Heaven, No. 5, Rue du Mont Juru, Kiyovu (three streets from Mille Collines Hotel), Rwanda, www.heavenrwanda.com
drink
Rwanda boasts and roasts some of the best beans in the world, so park yourself at the nearest Bourbon Coffee for the afternoon. The café, which attracts all the caffeine-crazed expats, partners directly with local farmers, and will open up its first outpost on our continent this year. Bourbon Coffee, MTN Centre, Nyarutarama, Rwanda.
shop
For those who love to barter Canal Street-style, check out the lively Nyabugogo Market (at the bottom of Rue du Lac Hago) and its vast array of vendors. If fixed pricing is more your thing, head to the Union Trade Center (in Centreville) to satisfy your global shopper. UTC hosts a bevy of shops that carry unique Rwandan crafts—like beaded necklaces hand-rolled from recycled paper—that you'll want to bring home.
do
Well-known for its gorillas, an expedition into the misty hills will have you witnessing the last remaining creatures that Dian Fossey first introduced. If you're not ape about primates, but still want something wild, talk to a local tour company who'll take you by boat to Napolean's Bat Island on Lake Kivu. While we love the Dark Knight, we didn't want to get too close, so our guide went on ahead and awoke the nocturnal creatures for us. He was able to rouse a thousand and it blew our socks off. www.thousandhills.rw