10 Ways to Make Magic With Succulent Centerpieces
Why bother with flowers when you can have a fresh focal point that’s just as beautiful but lasts for years? If you haven’t already hopped on the succulent bandwagon, perhaps we can convince you with this roundup of 10 stunning and diverse succulent centerpieces.
Perfect as a display on an outdoor table or an accent on a sunny windowsill, these miniature gardens will be guaranteed conversation-starters at your next party. Best of all, they’re much easier to put together than they seem and require very little care to maintain.
1. Simple and elegant. The designer of this Santa Barbara, California, backyard used a low wooden trough to hold a mix of succulents running down the center of a trestle table. The design is both simple and timeless — fitting well with the modern farmhouse-style dining set.
To re-create this look, choose a neutral-toned container, ideally with a narrow rectangular shape, and a subdued gray-green color palette for the succulents, such as pearly echeveria (Echeveriaspp., USDA zones 9 to 11; find your zone) and silver-coated cobweb houseleek (Sempervivum arachnoideum, zones 4 to 9), both pictured. The plants seen here would grow best in full sun to partial sun exposure.
To re-create this look, choose a neutral-toned container, ideally with a narrow rectangular shape, and a subdued gray-green color palette for the succulents, such as pearly echeveria (Echeveriaspp., USDA zones 9 to 11; find your zone) and silver-coated cobweb houseleek (Sempervivum arachnoideum, zones 4 to 9), both pictured. The plants seen here would grow best in full sun to partial sun exposure.
2. Vibrant vignette. Bring a hit of color to your patio with a vivid combination of red, orange, gold and chartreuse succulents. For outdoor displays, choose succulents that deepen in color when exposed to sunlight, such as some varieties of echeveria and hens-and-chicks (Sempervivum tectorum).
This bright mix in a San Francisco Bay Area backyard includes orange ‘Sticks on Fire’ milk bush (Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Sticks on Fire’, zones 10 to 11), lime green watch chain (Crassula muscosa, zones 9 to 11), orange-tipped hens-and-chicks (Sempervivum tectorum, zones 3 to 8) and gold ‘Angelina’ stonecrop (Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’, zones 3 to 11). All succulents pictured thrive in full sun.
This bright mix in a San Francisco Bay Area backyard includes orange ‘Sticks on Fire’ milk bush (Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Sticks on Fire’, zones 10 to 11), lime green watch chain (Crassula muscosa, zones 9 to 11), orange-tipped hens-and-chicks (Sempervivum tectorum, zones 3 to 8) and gold ‘Angelina’ stonecrop (Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’, zones 3 to 11). All succulents pictured thrive in full sun.
3. Architectural statement. For a real eye-catcher, choose a focal-point plant with height and an interesting form for your succulent centerpiece. This potted snake plant (Sansevieria bacularis) underplanted with succulents makes a graphic statement from across a room. Up close, one can appreciate the cast-stone vessel and pale stones nestled around the base of the plants.
When combining taller plants with succulents, be sure that they have the same light and water needs. The snake plant works well since it can tolerate very low water and variable light conditions.
When combining taller plants with succulents, be sure that they have the same light and water needs. The snake plant works well since it can tolerate very low water and variable light conditions.
4. Contemporary beachy. In this Southern California backyard, a trio of repeating succulent arrangements forms a laid-back yet contemporary centerpiece. The plantings include two types of echeveria (Echeveria glauca and E. glauca var. pumila) as well as Crassula ‘Blue Waves’.
Landscape designer Sacha McCrae offers a tip to re-create this lush look at home: “Fullness is key,” she says, “so we squeeze the plants in — no soil should be showing when you are finished.” She also recommends limited water and positioning the centerpiece out of direct, baking sunlight to help the tenderer succulents retain their pearly-gray color. This particular arrangement receives morning sun.
Landscape designer Sacha McCrae offers a tip to re-create this lush look at home: “Fullness is key,” she says, “so we squeeze the plants in — no soil should be showing when you are finished.” She also recommends limited water and positioning the centerpiece out of direct, baking sunlight to help the tenderer succulents retain their pearly-gray color. This particular arrangement receives morning sun.
5. Mermaid-inspired. Instead of using a ceramic container for this succulent centerpiece, designer Bridget Gasque used a giant faux clamshell to put together a beachy indoor arrangement. She planted a variety of succulents, including maroon-tipped echeveriaand green-and-white-striped zebra plant (Haworthia fasciata, zones 9 to 11), and filled in the gaps with clumps of preserved moss.
While the succulents need only minimal water, the preserved reindeer moss will retain its soft texture with misting every few days. The succulents would grow best placed on a windowsill with bright indirect light.
While the succulents need only minimal water, the preserved reindeer moss will retain its soft texture with misting every few days. The succulents would grow best placed on a windowsill with bright indirect light.
6. Repetition. Sometimes the simplest centerpiece designs can be the most effective. In this Litchfield, Connecticut, backyard, a lineup of five knobby containers, each planted with a green aeonium (Aeonium sp., Zone 9), forms a charming tabletop display. One’s eye is drawn to the repeating form of the chunky containers and fleshy succulents — both of which have a strong tactile quality.
To re-create this look, position a trio or quintet of the same containers (perhaps varying the heights) planted with a single variety of succulent, such as rosette-forming aeonium, echeveria or tiny tree-like jade plants (Crassula ovata, zones 10 to 12). Aeonium, like the ones pictured, would grow best in filtered sunlight.
To re-create this look, position a trio or quintet of the same containers (perhaps varying the heights) planted with a single variety of succulent, such as rosette-forming aeonium, echeveria or tiny tree-like jade plants (Crassula ovata, zones 10 to 12). Aeonium, like the ones pictured, would grow best in filtered sunlight.
7. Bohemian. Using an unusual planting vessel for your succulent centerpiece can be an easy way to either set it apart or tie the arrangement in with the room. For example, succulents planted in a metal pedestal look like a form of living art against a cobalt-blue wall in this surfer’s home in Los Angeles.
The pedestal and unusual arrangement tie in with the room’s other bohemian-style accessories, such as the Southeast Asian-inspired wall sculpture and driftwood candleholder. The succulent arrangement would require low water and bright, indirect sunlight.
The pedestal and unusual arrangement tie in with the room’s other bohemian-style accessories, such as the Southeast Asian-inspired wall sculpture and driftwood candleholder. The succulent arrangement would require low water and bright, indirect sunlight.
8. Eclectic. This succulent vignette on a patio in Dallas is another example of using unusual planting vessels. Here, the designer cut the tops off a couple of glass sangria and tequila bottles, leaving the labels on for graphic interest, and filled them with potting soil, pebbles and a mix of succulents, including blue chalk sticks (Senecio sp.). The overall effect is playful and eclectic.
Keep in mind that the succulents would need to be watered very lightly if there are no drainage holes in the bottles, and moved indoors when it’s raining. These succulents would thrive in full sun.
Keep in mind that the succulents would need to be watered very lightly if there are no drainage holes in the bottles, and moved indoors when it’s raining. These succulents would thrive in full sun.
9. Modern terrarium. This glass-and-metal globe almost entirely encloses a mixed planting of succulents in a Columbus, Ohio, dining room. The stunning centerpiece acts as the focal point for the room, drawing one in to take a closer look.
Although most terrariums are filled with a bottom layer of sand and charcoal to help absorb excess water, you would need to be extra diligent about not overwatering to keep succulents happy in this type of environment.
Gardens Under Glass: How to Make Your Own Terrarium
Although most terrariums are filled with a bottom layer of sand and charcoal to help absorb excess water, you would need to be extra diligent about not overwatering to keep succulents happy in this type of environment.
Gardens Under Glass: How to Make Your Own Terrarium
10. Mixed with moss. To give low-water succulent plantings a lusher look, try combining them with mosses — either preserved florist varieties or living plants. In this copper trough, moss fills in the gaps between a trio of echeveria, zebra plant and hens-and-chicks.
Most live mosses require more water than succulents but can be given extra moisture without overwatering the succulents by misting every few days. To get the same look without the extra hassle, choose a preserved moss instead — misting is a bonus, not required.
Most live mosses require more water than succulents but can be given extra moisture without overwatering the succulents by misting every few days. To get the same look without the extra hassle, choose a preserved moss instead — misting is a bonus, not required.
How to Make Your Own Succulent Centerpiece
1. Find your container. Choose a vessel that’s relatively shallow and a good tabletop size. This can be a low plant container from the nursery, a repurposed ceramic serving bowl or a funky recycled vessel such as a large shell, an antique metal tray or a collection of jars. For outdoor containers, make sure there’s a drainage hole, as succulents rot in wet soil. For indoor containers, you can choose a vessel without a drainage hole but be sure not to overwater.
2. Choose your succulents. Depending on the look you’d like for your centerpiece, select a mix of small succulents of various shapes, sizes and colors to plant together or choose one or two stand-alone specimens to each occupy its own container. In general, it’s a good idea to include one or two low-growing fillers (like hens-and-chicks) and trailing varieties (such as stonecrop) to cover the exposed soil.
Also consider where you’d like to place your succulent centerpiece. For outdoor displays, choose succulents that thrive in sunlight. For indoor containers, use succulents such as some types of aeonium and mistletoe cactus (Rhipsalis baccifera) that can be grown in lower light.
3. Get planting. Use a quick-draining potting mix and plant succulents and cactuses shallowly — making sure that the soil does not cover their crowns or fleshy leaves. For mixed plantings, start with your largest succulents as anchors and plant smaller varieties around their base, leaving room to tuck in trailing varieties (like Sedum ‘Angelina’) at the edges of the container.
4. Add finishing touches. Cover the soil with a top-dressing material, such as gravel, sea glass, fine bark mulch or preserved moss, or fill in gaps with low-growing succulents to naturally cover the soil. The top-dressing not only gives the container a finished look but also cuts down on the need for water.
5. Care for your plants. Most succulents grow best with four to six hours of bright, indirect sunlight per day. You may need to periodically move indoor containers outdoors to give them a dose of sunshine, or choose succulents that can tolerate less light exposure for use indoors. Keep in mind that some succulents — particularly those used to growing indoors — can burn if exposed to hot, baking sun.
Water about once a week at the base of plants, avoiding overhead spraying. Allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering again.
1. Find your container. Choose a vessel that’s relatively shallow and a good tabletop size. This can be a low plant container from the nursery, a repurposed ceramic serving bowl or a funky recycled vessel such as a large shell, an antique metal tray or a collection of jars. For outdoor containers, make sure there’s a drainage hole, as succulents rot in wet soil. For indoor containers, you can choose a vessel without a drainage hole but be sure not to overwater.
2. Choose your succulents. Depending on the look you’d like for your centerpiece, select a mix of small succulents of various shapes, sizes and colors to plant together or choose one or two stand-alone specimens to each occupy its own container. In general, it’s a good idea to include one or two low-growing fillers (like hens-and-chicks) and trailing varieties (such as stonecrop) to cover the exposed soil.
Also consider where you’d like to place your succulent centerpiece. For outdoor displays, choose succulents that thrive in sunlight. For indoor containers, use succulents such as some types of aeonium and mistletoe cactus (Rhipsalis baccifera) that can be grown in lower light.
3. Get planting. Use a quick-draining potting mix and plant succulents and cactuses shallowly — making sure that the soil does not cover their crowns or fleshy leaves. For mixed plantings, start with your largest succulents as anchors and plant smaller varieties around their base, leaving room to tuck in trailing varieties (like Sedum ‘Angelina’) at the edges of the container.
4. Add finishing touches. Cover the soil with a top-dressing material, such as gravel, sea glass, fine bark mulch or preserved moss, or fill in gaps with low-growing succulents to naturally cover the soil. The top-dressing not only gives the container a finished look but also cuts down on the need for water.
5. Care for your plants. Most succulents grow best with four to six hours of bright, indirect sunlight per day. You may need to periodically move indoor containers outdoors to give them a dose of sunshine, or choose succulents that can tolerate less light exposure for use indoors. Keep in mind that some succulents — particularly those used to growing indoors — can burn if exposed to hot, baking sun.
Water about once a week at the base of plants, avoiding overhead spraying. Allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering again.